Tuesday, 27 February 2018

Piping neck

2. Bias piping (thick & thin) or straight piping

1. Take 1.5" bias strip. Fold into half.

2. Keeping rightside of dress to rightside of interface, Sew 1/4".

3. Greeze and turn the interface fabric.

4. Fold interface as thin as possible visible in front.

5. Sew on rightside of dress inbetween the stitch and fabric.make sure the stitch catches interfacing fabric at the bottom.

Can sew thick or thin piping According to our wish.

Can take 1" strip for more thin strips



Lesson 11: neck finishing

Neck finishing and sleeves finishing


Bias interfacing finish (front &back)

1. Take 1.5" bias strip and fold into half.

2. Sew 1/4" keeping rightside facing rightside.

3. Make slits on curve areas with 1/2" gap.
4. Turn facing to wrong side of dress. Which will be 1/2" now.
5. Sew at the end of fold and finish the neck.


Can do hemming too at tip of fold to avoid stitch line seen on front of dress. Similar to saree blouse neck.

Same can be done with contrast interfacing fabric which need to be stitched on wrong side and turned to front and finish with topstitch at the tip of fold.


Thursday, 22 February 2018

Lesson 10:

Types of Fabrics


Cotton - regular cotton fabric

Silk cotton - used for blouses. Lots of varieties available ranging from 45rs to 500rs.

Silk - used as sarees

Spun - which will get loops on wash.
Satin -shiny softy. Good for smoking works and party frocks

Velvet - furry fabric used for yoke or borders.

Brocade with thread - chanderi or cotton with thread weaved design

Brocade with zari - chanderi or cotton with zari weaved design

Silky Brocade - soft silky with zari weaved

Rawsilk - rough textured shiny


Santoon - soft shiny like satin

Polysilk - type of silkcotton with more cotton mix
Crepe - soft smoothy. Seen as Mysore crepe silk sarees

Poplin - thick cotton used for petticoats and shimmes
Long cloth - lighter than poplin used to do salwar pants and frocks. Good for embroidery works
Mul cotton - thin cotton. Used for baby dresses & napkins.
Jute - jute bag texture rough and dry
Lenin - handloom material with mix of silk and cotton

Reyon - a variety of spun. Mostly used for top and patiyala bottom


Tussar- variety of soft silk flowy


Buttersilk - paper texture silky

Chanderi - silkcotton variety. Will be stiff.


Net - thin transparent with holes.

Hacoba - eyelet cutwork fabric. Pure cotton

Chicken work - shadow work fabric

Printed crape - soft printed used for salwar suits top
Crushed crape - crushed will have lines texture. Salwar suits +& sarees available
Handloom cotton - pure cotton. Little rough texture.
2*1 cotton thicker than mulcotton. Used as linning cloth for all dresses
2*2 cotton - thin quality cotton used for blouses
Chiffon - dupatta material
Georgette embroidery saree material. Rough texture

Viscose - thin chiffon with crushed texture

Garden - Material crushed Georgette variety. Comes as garden saree

Kalamkari - hand block print and hand painted fabric

Ikkat - weaved handloom cotton

Agrakh - Jaipur block print

Batik -  poplin fabric with block prints

Bandhini-  mulcotton tied and designed

Lehria - chiffon fabric tied as lines design

Chettinard cotton - handloom cotton used as sarees

Bagalpuri - jute mix silk fabric. Used as dupatta or saree



Hope I covered most of using fabrics

Happy sewing
Thank you

Lesson 9: Seams

Lesson 9:
Seam 

Plain seam:
A straight line of stitch is called as seam. 
Double seam:
Stitching 2 lines together with just next to each other without any gaps. For tight strength. 

Folded seam:
Fold the fabric once and stitching on top of it is called folded seam. 

Double folded seam:

1. Fold 1" and again 1" and sew at tip of fold
2. Fold 1/2" twice and do plain seam
3. Fold 1/4" twice and do plain seam
4. Fold 1/4 once and 3/4" again and do plain seam.
5. Insert in Pico foot and do plain seam
6. Insert in Pico foot and do zigzag stitch

Take an 10" square. Draw an U cut of 5" circle. And practice thin folded stitch. It should be less than 1/4" fold. At curves can stretch and fold to get ease properly. This need practice to get perfect.



Top stitch 
Stitching on top front of fabric.


Double top stitch:
Stitching 2 lines on oneside or double sides of front of fabric. 


Flat felled seam:
Joining 2 fabrics with halfinch difference. Then folding and stitching that seam allowance. 


French seam:
Joining 2 fabrics rightside facing right with 1cm. Then turning and stitching 1/4" on wrong side. Which will cover the loose ends of fabrics and give a neat finish.


Lapped seam:
Joining 2 fabric and making top stitch on one side. 


Hair line seam: 
Stitching in curved area. Should make notches and then turn to front side. 



Hope these doesn't need videos. Can try urself..

Thank you
Happy sewing