Lesson 12: Types of Sleeves

Lesson 12:

Types of Sleeves:

1. Regular sleeve

2. Top puff

3. Bottom puff

4. Both puff

5. cap sleeve

6. Half cap sleeve
7. Full or 3/4th

8.Gathered sleeve

9. Circular sleeve

10. Bell sleeve

11. Fly sleeve
12. Frilled sleeve

13. Raglon sleeve

14. Tulip sleeve
15. Petal sleeve

Kurti neck with linning cloth

6. Kurti neck with linning cloth

1. Cut same as dress in linning material.
2. Draw the neck design on linning cloth
3. Keeping right side facing right side of lining cloth Sew on line.
4. Cut leaving seam allowances
5. Do notches and turn to back.
6. Do top stitch close to neck.

7. If thin or flimsy material can do same interface method to finish the  neck keeping both main fabric and linning fabric together.

Frock necks and sleeves can be done with this method using lining cloth.

Happy sewing

Kurti neck with interfacing

5. Kurti neck with interfacing cloth

1. Take interface cloth with 1.5" extra on 3 sides of neck. Take 2pcs.

2. According to neck pattern cut as square or round and sew leaving less than 1/4" on 3sides.

3. Turn insideout. Greeze or top stitch both pcs together.

4. Make notches on centre of dress and interface to match centre together.

5. Draw the desired neck design folding interface into half.

6. Trace same pattern on otherside with pins or carbon papers.

7. Pin positioning the interface rightside facing rightside of dress.

8. Sew on line drawn carefully. Always turn on curves or cuts keeping machine needle on the cloth.

9. Cut leaving 1/2" or 1/4" SA. Make slits with 1/2" gap and at sharp corners.

10. Turn interface to back

11. Do topstitch on tip of neckline

12. Do hemming on interface cloth.

Can add wax buckram to interface cloth and sew same to get more stiff neck designs.
Just iron buckram cloth to one of interface cloth. And sew the same way.

https://youtu.be/jw1BseriFTw

For stiff neck can use wax buckram as shown in video. Or can do with pc of cloth as I said with my pictures...

Happy sewing

Kurti neck with interfacing

4. Kurti neck with interfacing
strip(front & back)

1. Take 2" straight strips.

2. Fold into half. Keeping rightside of dress facing rightside of  interface.

3. Sew 1/4"

4. Make triangle fold at corners for square necks.

5. Clip at corners of neck.

6. Greeze and turn interface to back.

7. Top stitch on front neck line.

8. Sew at fold tip  of interface or do hemming

For front contrast neck
Fold triangle at corners inside and do top stitch on cross fold top.

https://youtu.be/nlz5cuD0byQ

Happy sewing

Corded piping

3. Corded piping

1. take 1" straight or bias strip
2. Keeping cord sew just next to cord.
3. Finish rawedge with zigzag stitch
4. Fix to finished neck.
5. Or keep between neck and facing cloth and sew.

Zipperfoot or cord piping foot.

https://youtu.be/5fdZy9hKcr4

https://youtu.be/r9-WPLcwnqM


Happy sewing

Piping neck

2. Bias piping (thick & thin) or straight piping

1. Take 1.5" bias strip. Fold into half.

2. Keeping rightside of dress to rightside of interface, Sew 1/4".

3. Greeze and turn the interface fabric.

4. Fold interface as thin as possible visible in front.

5. Sew on rightside of dress inbetween the stitch and fabric.make sure the stitch catches interfacing fabric at the bottom.

Can sew thick or thin piping According to our wish.

Can take 1" strip for more thin strips

Lesson 11: neck finishing

Neck finishing and sleeves finishing


Bias interfacing finish (front &back)

1. Take 1.5" bias strip and fold into half.

2. Sew 1/4" keeping rightside facing rightside.

3. Make slits on curve areas with 1/2" gap.
4. Turn facing to wrong side of dress. Which will be 1/2" now.
5. Sew at the end of fold and finish the neck.

Can do hemming too at tip of fold to avoid stitch line seen on front of dress. Similar to saree blouse neck.

Same can be done with contrast interfacing fabric which need to be stitched on wrong side and turned to front and finish with topstitch at the tip of fold.