Lesson 20: frilled or raffled skirt

Lesson 20: frilled or raffled skirt

Cut main pc
Waist plus .5times fabric
Length of skirt required.

Eg for 4 yrs:

Width waist20"+10"=30" +1"SA for side joint.
Length 15"

Frills of 3 tier
Width take 2 times the cloth of main fabric.
That's 60"
Length 15/3 =5" plus 1"=6"

Waist band make it elastic.

Stitching:
1) join Main fabric sides joint.
2) mark 3 lines of 5" intervals on full main fabric.
3) Pico one end of all tires after joining side joints.
4) keeping rightside of frills with right side of main fabric make small gathers and sew with .25" Seam allowance.
5) top stitch frills
6) sew waistband and insert elastic


Frills both sides can also be picot and on rightside of main fabric can make frills with .5" seam allowance

http://thegirlinspired.com/tiered-ruffle-skirt-tutorial/

Happy sewing

Lesson 19: wrap around or overlapping skirt

Lesson 19: wrap around or overlapping skirt

Overlap skirt

With same aline skirt or circular skirt overlap can be done.
Just cut extra 1 more front fabric.

In semicircular skirt fold fabric thrice instead of twice. So will get overlap fabric.

Waistband can be done with hooks or rope.

Bottom line can be curved or let straight

Happy sewing

Lesson 18: Gypsy or tired skirt

Lesson 18: Gypsy or tired skirt

Usually I prefer
1.5 times fabric for each tire.

Eg: waist is 20

First tire will be 30" (can do elastic with that ease)
Second tire 45"
Third tire 68"
Fourth 102"

According to number of tires we want to do. Split length and width calculation.

https://blithestitches.wordpress.com/tutorials-tips-and-tricks/tutorial-how-to-make-a-tiered-or-gypsy-dress/

Happy sewing

Lesson 17: circular skirts

Lesson 17: circular skirts



Semicircle skirt:

Fold fabric once and cut.
Stitching method:
1⃣ Sew waistband RS facing RS. then turn and sew.
2⃣ Insert rope or elastic at waist
3⃣ Join side seam leaving waist band.
4⃣ Pico hemline or finish with cross facing piece.

Full circular

Fold fabric once length wise. Then again width wise.

For adults- fold lengthwise twice.
So make it 4 layers.
Stitching method same as above

If attaching 4or 5" borders. Reduce that 5" from height and then cut.
Border cut 5+1"sa .

Sew border end with facing cloth.
Join border at hemline of skirt keeping border and facing cloth for full border and sew. Overlock if required.
For 1or .5 inch border can sew with bias strips


Happy sewing

Opening finishes

Opening finishes

1️⃣ How to sew separating zipper

https://youtu.be/Lxvdx7Pb-20


2️⃣ How to attach zip to a dress
https://youtu.be/M8sU3i1omJI

3️⃣ How to sew invisible zip and normal zip

https://youtu.be/4TDfRc5miMg

4️⃣ Attaching zip to Kurtis
https://youtu.be/TJgx2hHYux8


5️⃣ How to make placket and continuous bound placket to sew hooks or buttons

https://youtu.be/DWZC5c5C6S8



Happy sewing 

Lesson 16: pleated skirt

Lesson 16: Pleated skirt

Measurement required:
Height 25"
Waist 21"

Cutting:

Always prefer keeping selvage at sides of dress. Only in case of opposite print or border, cut widthwise.

Cut length of 25"-waist band width+ SA 2"=26"
Width (21+ease of 4")*3=25*3=75"+SA 2" =77"

Waistband

Length 21+4+SA 2"=27"
Width 1" means 1×2+1"SA= 3"


Stitching method:

1️⃣ For side opening near waist band, sew 4 to 5" folding the fabric .25" & again .25"

2️⃣ Join the sides from bottom line till the above stitched point. Thats 4" below top line.

3️⃣ Sew the waistband right side facing right side with .5" SA by doing knife pleats.  fold 1" on both ends.
(Do the pleats separately for beginners and then attach waistband)

4️⃣ Turn and sew on wrong side folding .5" &then 1". To avoid cross stretches. Iron the fold and pin it. Then sew for basic practice. If u pull top holding fabric in hand, will get extra fabric at end.

5️⃣ Insert rope on waist band

6️⃣ Sew tucks if any at bottom border line.
Or finish bottom line by folding and sewing 1.5" SA.

Skirt is ready

Happy sewing

Lesson 15: types of pleats6

Lesson 15: pleated skirts
Types of pleats

Knife pleat: 

1️⃣ For continuous knife pleat without space, we need 3 times fabric (1*3= 3")

2️⃣ If having 2times fabric. Then pleat 0.5" with 0.5" space inbetween (0.5*3+.5 = 2")

3️⃣ If having 4 times fabric. Then pleat 1" on top 1.5 at bottom folds. So it will be (1.5+1.5+1= 4")

Always pleat facing us. Usually used in frocks and lehengas. 

Box pleat: 

For box pleat first should pleat opposite to us. Then should pleat facing us. 

Usually used in frocks and skirts.

Invertet pleat: 

First should pleat facing us and then should pleat opposite. Centre should match together. 

Usually used in  aline frocks. 

  

Stitched pleats:

With 3 times fabric. On wrong side fold 1" and sew. With 1" space do the same continuously. Length of stitch can be 2or 4" approx from waist line. Finish each line with back stitch and secure it. Can trim excess pleat on wrong side. 

Pleated top stitch: 

Any pleat can be top stitched if required. Always secure with back stitch.