Idesign - Free sewing and learning : April 2018

Wednesday, 18 April 2018

Lesson 17: circular skirts

Lesson 17: circular skirts

Semicircle skirt:

Fold fabric once and cut.
Stitching method:
1⃣ Sew waistband RS facing RS. then turn and sew.
2⃣ Insert rope or elastic at waist
3⃣ Join side seam leaving waist band.
4⃣ Pico hemline or finish with cross facing piece.

Full circular

Fold fabric once length wise. Then again width wise.

For adults- fold lengthwise twice.
So make it 4 layers.
Stitching method same as above

If attaching 4or 5" borders. Reduce that 5" from height and then cut.
Border cut 5+1"sa .

Sew border end with facing cloth.
Join border at hemline of skirt keeping border and facing cloth for full border and sew. Overlock if required.
For 1or .5 inch border can sew with bias strips

Happy sewing

Monday, 16 April 2018

Opening finishes

Opening finishes

1️⃣ How to sew separating zipper

https://youtu.be/Lxvdx7Pb-20

2️⃣ How to attach zip to a dress
https://youtu.be/M8sU3i1omJI

3️⃣ How to sew invisible zip and normal zip

https://youtu.be/4TDfRc5miMg

4️⃣ Attaching zip to Kurtis
https://youtu.be/TJgx2hHYux8

5️⃣ How to make placket and continuous bound placket to sew hooks or buttons

https://youtu.be/DWZC5c5C6S8

Happy sewing

Lesson 16: pleated skirt

Lesson 16: Pleated skirt

Measurement required:
Height 25"
Waist 21"

Cutting:

Always prefer keeping selvage at sides of dress. Only in case of opposite print or border, cut widthwise.

Cut length of 25"-waist band width+ SA 2"=26"
Width (21+ease of 4")*3=25*3=75"+SA 2" =77"

Waistband

Length 21+4+SA 2"=27"
Width 1" means 1×2+1"SA= 3"

Stitching method:

1️⃣ For side opening near waist band, sew 4 to 5" folding the fabric .25" & again .25"

2️⃣ Join the sides from bottom line till the above stitched point. Thats 4" below top line.

3️⃣ Sew the waistband right side facing right side with .5" SA by doing knife pleats. fold 1" on both ends.
(Do the pleats separately for beginners and then attach waistband)

4️⃣ Turn and sew on wrong side folding .5" &then 1". To avoid cross stretches. Iron the fold and pin it. Then sew for basic practice. If u pull top holding fabric in hand, will get extra fabric at end.

5️⃣ Insert rope on waist band

6️⃣ Sew tucks if any at bottom border line.
Or finish bottom line by folding and sewing 1.5" SA.

Skirt is ready

Happy sewing

Lesson 15: types of pleats6

Lesson 15: pleated skirts
Types of pleats

Knife pleat:

1️⃣ For continuous knife pleat without space, we need 3 times fabric (1*3= 3")

2️⃣ If having 2times fabric. Then pleat 0.5" with 0.5" space inbetween (0.5*3+.5 = 2")

3️⃣ If having 4 times fabric. Then pleat 1" on top 1.5 at bottom folds. So it will be (1.5+1.5+1= 4")

Always pleat facing us. Usually used in frocks and lehengas.

Box pleat:

For box pleat first should pleat opposite to us. Then should pleat facing us.

Usually used in frocks and skirts.

Invertet pleat:

First should pleat facing us and then should pleat opposite. Centre should match together.

Usually used in aline frocks.

Stitched pleats:

With 3 times fabric. On wrong side fold 1" and sew. With 1" space do the same continuously. Length of stitch can be 2or 4" approx from waist line. Finish each line with back stitch and secure it. Can trim excess pleat on wrong side.

Pleated top stitch:

Any pleat can be top stitched if required. Always secure with back stitch.

Lesson 14: Aline skirt

Always fold fabric keeping selvage at sides for any dress. Then only drape will be good. Only in case of opposite printed fabric like saree. Cut widthwise.

Calculations:

0-1 height of skirt minus waist band width or 1.5" plus seam allowance 2"

( eg: 40-1.5+2=40.5)

0-3 [waist +ease of 4or 6"]/4 +SA 1"

(Eg: (36+4)/4 +1"= 11")

1-4 (0-3)*2or 2.5 times

(Eg 10*2+1"SA = 21"

4-4' 3" to 4" up and curve the line 1-4'

Waistband:

For 1.5" width band

Width 1.5*2+1" 4"

Length (0-3 measurement) 42"